Whispering Pines Farm & Rabbitry - Company Message
Pet Bunny Care and Rabbit Lingo
updated 3/15/11
 
Disclaimer - The below information is my opinion and experience only.  Do not take this as gospel. I am not nor ever will be a medical professional.  I do recommend researching as much info as possible before purchasing a pet bunny so you will know what to expect.  If in doubt or have questions or concerns, I am always an email or phone call away.
 
My most important tips:
 
1) Do NOT use cedar shavings as bedding.  It will kill your bunny.  Use PINE ONLY!!!!
2) Do NOT feed your bunny Cabbage as it hurts their bellies.  Sping mix lettuce is okay but don't feed much.
3) Always make sure your bunny has plenty of fresh water.
 
Heat Stroke -  biggest summer killer: This is an important concern that every rabbit owner must know about in order to keep bunnies alive. Rabbits are not tolerable to heat and are highly susceptible. When the temperatures rise above 85° Fahrenheit, humidity levels are above 70%, or inadequate shade and/or ventilation can all contribute to heat exhaustion.The main symptoms of Heat Stroke; may include panting rapidly (open mouth breathing), weakness; ears are red hue, refusal to move, slobbering (drooling), delirium (feverish), convulsions (spasms) and sadly eventual death.  With proper measure every rabbit owner can help to prevent Heat Stroke. Here are several tips, which I use for my cherished bunnies.
  1.Make sure the bunny is always out of direct sun.
  2.Have available a hefty crock dish filled with clean cold icy water
  3.If possible, have a mist spray bottle: rabbits don’t sweat they actually dissipate heat through the ears. Every so often, mist the rabbit’s ears to help keep them cooler. You can also apply cool running water to the earflaps especially to the lop-eared rabbits.
  4.It’s a good idea to set up a circulating fan that will breeze past your rabbit but remember that some do chew, so make sure to bunny proof the cord connecting to the fan.
  5.It is also a good idea to place a ceramic tile or marble flat in the cage, these will stay cool and they love to lay on them.  simply put in the freezer to keep cool then place in cages.
  6. Fill 1 or 2 liter soda bottles with water and freeze them. Frozen bottles can then be placed inside of the bunnies’ cages so they can lean their hot little bodies against for a cool down..
If Heat Stroke Occurs: ·Never submerge the rabbit in cold water. This may worsen the condition by placing the bunny into shock. DO dampen its ears and body with cool water; a towel will do the job.Next get it HELP. Immediately get him into a vet or emergency clinic. Do Not Wait; its life is at stake.  Butler Animal Clinic on Western Ave sees rabbits and this is the vet I use for mine.
Prevention is of course the best course of action. The simple things such as providing your rabbit with adequate shade, shelter and ventilation can mean the difference between life and death.
 
Housing / Cages ~ The size and type of cage required will depend on first which breed of bunny you want to have.  For instance, a junior does fine in a 18 X 24 cage and a mini lopdoes well in a 24 X 24 inch cage.  I prefer to have my english lops in a 30 X 30 inch cage for more stretch room.  Cages should be cleaned at least once a week.  Do NOT use cedar shavings or cat litter as bedding because they are toxic.  Use pine shavings or any other "green" bedding they have out now. 
 
Cage Placement ~ Rabbits tolerate cold better than heat.  They need to be placed out of drafts and kept dry.  Proper ventilation is also very important.  Make sure to keep them in the shade during summer months if housed outside.  Also insure your outside hutch is safe from predators such as dogs, cats and wild animals.  If kept inside make sure they are safe from any inside pets as well. 
 
Cage Accessories ~ It is recommended to have a resting board so the bunny can have relief from the cage wire floor.  The cheapest place I have found is at bunnyrabbit.com but you can also get them at your local pet store.  You can give your bun relief from boredom by giving them simple inexpensive toys to play with.  Cardboard paper towel rolls or toilet paper rolls are good and they are not harmful if chewed on.  Empty Vienna sausage cans are also fun for rabbits to toss and role around their cages. You can also use golf balls but check often to make sure your bunny is not chewing on it.
 
Food & Water ~ Always provide you bunny with fresh clean drinking water.  There are plenty of different types water bottles and crocks to choose from.  It really doesn't matter which you use as long as it is readily accessible to your bunny at all times.  Your bunny's main diet should be rabbit pellets.  It is not necessary to buy the kind with fancy colors etc.  Plain pellet food sold at a local Co-op or Tractor Supply is sufficient.  I use Manna Pro Rabbit Feed that I get at Tractor Supply.  I will give you a small bag of pellet food to take with you when you purchase a bunny from me. If I forget to give you this please remind me.  Mix the feed I give you with the new feed you buy and slowly change the bunny's diet over to the new feed to avoid any tummy upset.  I recommend 10 oz for mini lops.  If you have access to hay, it is good to give them a small handful every day.  Limit treats to only once a day.  Very small pieces of apple or carrot are good.  Remember a fat rabbit is not healthy.  Please do not overfed your rabbit.
 
Health Care / Sickness~ Rabbits are usually pretty healthy.  They do not require any shots or visits to the vet under normal circumstances.  Do trim your bunny's nails regularly as you would a dog or cats.  The easiest way to do this is to flip your bun over on his/her back and hold the foot with one had and clip with dog clippers or regular toe nail clippers.  Be careful not to clip to far and get into the quick.  If you do and it does bleed, just hold for a few seconds until the bleeding stops.  If you bunny stops eating and drinking completely, offer some dry Quaker oats in a separate bowl.  You can also offer a piece of pineapple or put some pineapple juice in their water.  Since bunnies clean them self constantly, fur balls can form and stop them up.  Pineapple juice helps break up the fur ball so everything can flow naturally again.  You can also put some yogart in their mouths with a spoon or straw.  This helps put good bacteria in their digestive system.  Probiotics and benbec have being known to help as well.  You can get this at your local pet store, Co-op or TSC.
 
Other info ~ Rabbits are not social creatures.  They do just fine on their own without company from another rabbit.  You can put two same sex bunnies in the same cage when they are young however they may fight when they mature.  Do not leave a male and female in the same cage or you will have lots of baby bunnies. It is also not good on either doe or buck to do this as it is stressful for them.  Two bucks will eventually fight as they mature.  I have kept two sisters together until adulthood.  If they do fight, just separate them into different cages.
 
I hope this answers some of your questions regarding pet bunny care.  I will most likely add to this page as I think of things or as I get asked questions. 
thanks,
Amy
 
Rabbit Lingo
 
Ever wonder what some words mean in the rabbit world?  Read below!
 
JUNIOR: A rabbit under the age of 6 months
SENIOR: A rabbit over the age of 6 months.
DOE: A female rabbit
BUCK: a male rabbit
KIT: a newborn rabbit
LITTER: a group of kits born together from the same doe.
SHOW QUALITY: Show quality free of DQ (see below).  This doesn't guarantee wins, only that the rabbit is suitable for showing.
PET: a rabbit whose temperament is suitable for a pet.  May be unsuitable for show or breeding due to size, type or undesirable color.
BROOD: a rabbit suitable for breeding.  Rabbit may be unacceptable weight or color or other DQ or fault for showing.  Usually applies to does in the case of weight in Nethies (see BUD)
DQ: a term meaning DISQUALIFIED for show.  A rabbit would have a DQ trait and not be able to be shown in a rabbit show.
PROVEN: Successful brood doe that has raised litters to weanling. 
SEMI-PROVEN: An unsuccessful brood doe who has delivered litters but none alive.
FADER: a young rabbit between the age of 3-6 weeks who do not adjust from Mom's milk to rabbit pellets / hay.  These are weak rabbits and are not strong enough to survive.  Nature has a way of weeding out the weak I suppose.  It is very sad to see these types of rabbits as it is near impossible to save them.  There digestive system just cannot handle "real" food.
GESTATION: A rabbits gestation is 31 days. 
 
BIS=Best in Show
BOB=Best of Breed, BOS= Best opposite sex of Breed
BOG= Best of Group, BOSG=Best opposite sex of Group
BOV= Best of Variety, BOSV=Best opposite sex of Variety
LEG= rabbit won a show leg = To win a show leg there has to be at least 5 rabbits with 3 exhibitors
Grand Champion = It takes 3 legs under different judges with at least one as a senior in order to get a Grand Champion certificate.
Registered - Rabbit can only be registered through ARBA (American Rabbit breeders Assoc) by a Registrar.  Rabbit has to meet ARBA breed standard with no disqualifications.
RGC - Registered Grand Champion